Tuesday 12 October 2010

FujiFilm HS-10 - How To Set

For an index of all posts relating to the FujiFilm HS-10, click here

To join the EyeMindSoul Photography forum, where several folk use the FujiFilm HS-10, click here

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well, I am not going to be so pompous as to tell you what settings you must use, but I do find the following settings work well for me.

This of course assumes that you wish to use the camera in other than a simply 'auto' mode. I have found, for instance, that SR Auto can give some very pleasing images, albeit film simulation is confined to Standard.

Note : If you do shoot Raw, then I also have a detailed set of tutorials, for the supplied Raw File Converter (RFC). There are many examples which step through the process - Click here

Settings for Jpeg :

If you wish to have more control of the camera, and especially if you normally do some post process (PP) work, I find the following works very well. It will also work very well simply for images straight from the camera.
  • Program AE mode (P on the command dial) - Using this mode allows for many variables beyond those which the camera would choose automatically.
I have listed the following in the order in which they appear in the camera menu, once Program AE mode is selected.
  • ISO - Typically, I set the camera to ISO 400 (Auto) if I am shooting in good light. If I am shooting in low light, I set to 800 (Auto), or even 1600 (Auto)
  • Image Size - Normally, I shoot in L (large) 4:3, occasionally in L 3:2.
  • Image Quality - Fine (F)
  • Dynamic Range (DR) - My preferred setting here is DR 200%. This setting provides for excellent control of highlight and shadow detail.  -  Note : DR 200% can only be used if the ISO setting is at, or greater than, ISO 200
  • FinePix Color - Chrome
  • WB (white balance) Fine Tune - I leave this set at 0, 0
  • Color (Saturation) - Mid
  • Tone (Contrast) - Hard - Note : This is simply a matter of personal taste. If you prefer a less 'punchy' image, then select Mid or Soft. Both will still give pleasing results.
  • Sharpness - Hard  -  Note : One thing I have observed, is that setting other than Hard (high) will mean more noise reduction (NR) will also be applied to the image, and usually selectively. This can lead to 'smearing' in areas which are of uniform colour, or lack contrast, and in particular to those areas which are darker. Since I have been using Sharpness - Hard, I am rarely seeing any effect of smearing
I never use face detection, nor do I shoot video. If you do, you can select your own settings for these. If not, or once you have made your selections, scroll down the menu to the following :
  • AE BKT EV STEPS - Plus/Minus 2/3 (I use this occasionally)
  • Flash - Minus 1/3. I find the HS-10 flash output can be a little strong.
Additional settings :
  • I also set Exposure Compensation (EV), to minus 0.33 EV. This helps to give a little more 'headroom' for highlights. This works very well when used in conjunction with DR 200%.
  • When using flash (rarely), I use Slow Synchro when I am using it as a 'fill' light in reasonable lighting conditions. This means that the flash will still allow the natural light exposure to dominate. In dark situations, it is best to use it in it's normal mode though.
  • Auto Exposure (AE) - I set this to Average for most situations. I use Spot if I wish to ensure that I am exposing for the centre of the scene/subject.
  • Auto Focus (AF) - Mostly, I have this set to AF Center. I also use Area, if I wish to control where in the frame I wish the focus point to be. 
  • Auto Focus (AF) - Update 27th November, 2010. Since writing this post, I have switched to using AF Tracking, but without initiating tracking with the four way controller. Simply, I half press the shutter. This initiates AF Tracking, albeit in the centre of the frame only. Personally, I feel it is faster and more accurate. I now leave this on exclusively.
  • Image Stabilisation (IS) - IS Mode Shooting Only
Some examples shot using the settings described above. Each example is the original from the camera. No editing work has been performed on them, not even sharpening.

Related Posts :

HS-10 Related Posts - Click Here





























Cheers


...


82 comments:

  1. Using flash in Slow Synchro is entirely different thing than using just flash.
    In Slow Synchro the regular (no flash) exposure is made and only then flash fires. This leads to smeared trails behing (if 2nd curtain slow synchro is used)of in front (if 1st curtain is used) of the regular sharp image produced with the flash.

    This is a special technique, aimed for very dynamic results (like, light trails behind the cars, etc) and cannot be recommended to be always used with flash.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yuri, Hi.

    Thanks for your comment.

    Oops !! I wrote something else about this recently and failed to include my 'caveats' in this posting. I have now corrected the text. I find this works very well in providing fill light, without overpowering the scene/subject, when in reasonable lighting conditions.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  3. my settings were not far off yours, but always shy away from iso400 and kept to iso200.

    as i thought noise would be a problem.

    fool i was, have now adopted iso400 as my std

    big big thanks for this post

    DBD

    ReplyDelete
  4. just noticed....re your tone & sharpness settings "high" do you mean "hard" ?? as i have choice only of soft-std-hard

    ReplyDelete
  5. Dave, you left out film modes.

    Yuri, slow synchro is used for capturing ambient light in addition to a well lit subject. The trails are only an issue for moving subjects. Obviously, it is a balance to be struck. But plain old flash will create cave-like images it ISO is too low.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Andy, yes I do mean hard. I'll correct the text. Thanks for pointing that out.
    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Kim, film mode is covered by the setting parameter "FinePix Color = Chrome"

    This is my preferred setting.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Some thoughts/questions:

    You used to recommend a click toward cyan in WB fine-tune. I adopted that, and it's served me fine. But, now, you're back to neutral. Did something change your mind?

    I'm pretty much with you on settings. I like a little boost on color, so Chrome seems to do the trick. However, I feel that boosting tone makes it hard often to easily see contrast in the dark portions, so I'll probably stick with mid. Probably just taste.

    My simplistic models of Chrome is that it boosts saturation (and maybe tone) just a bit. So, directly boosting saturation and NOT using Chrome should be similar. Any thoughts on that?

    Similarly, my model of DR is that it expands the range of brightnesses that fit in the range you can get on print (or screen). From looking at sample pictures of variable DR, what I've noticed is that the dark end gets lightened up. This has the consequence of showing more noise (you see it most at the dark end) in those parts of the picture. Just another trade-off.

    But, then, increasing DR should be very similar to DIMINISHING contrast (tone), with the possible exception that the relevant curves might be a little different. So, the net result of INCREASING DR, and INCREASING tone should be...not much. They should roughly compensate. Any observations about this?

    Last point. You say, "setting other than Hard (high) will mean more noise reduction (NR) is also applied to the image. This can lead to 'smearing' in uniform contrast areas." I'm trying to understand why this might be so. I guess the manufacturer WANTS to apply more noise reduction (their model of what we want), but then if you say you want sharpness, they turn down the NR smudging, rather than (or in addition to) some other sharpening algorithm (unsharp mask). If they JUST turn down NR smearing, I think most of us would just want that. But they may also be adding processing (for hard sharpening) that can produce halos, etc. Thoughts?

    Oh, you use the phrase "uniform contrast areas." That does not sound right. Literally, uniform contrast means there are brights and non-brights, and the difference is steady. What you probably mean is uniform brightness or low contrast. Right? NR is more noticeable in areas of not-much-contrast because it amplifies stuff that is not in the image: noise. So, this may be a suggestion for wording change, and it is also testing my understanding of what you are observing.

    --Boxerman

    ReplyDelete
  9. Andrea, Hi.

    Some thoughts on the points you raised.

    WB Fine Tune
    As far as I knew this was still set toward cyan. This was done because, originally, I was getting a red 'cast', particularly if using Chrome. A couple of weeks back someone asked what my setting was and I checked. Somewhere along the line, it changed back to 0,0. I know I have done two camera resets and two firmware upgrades since getting the camera. When it changed, I don't know. I do know that I do not have any red 'cast' issue now.

    Tone
    My own preference is to set this to Hard, but Mid, or even Soft, is also a very good option. For colour, I have done several test shots between Chrome and Standard and I always come to the same conclusion, Chrome is what I prefer. I find this is particularly true as ISO rises. When using Standard, colour can wash away in high(er) ISO settings, such as ISO 800/1600. This all, however, really just comes down to personal preference.

    DR
    I shan't attempt to go into any technical why to's or wherefores here, but I have always found, with my Fuji cameras, that the higher the DR is set, the flatter the overall contrast of the image will be, and also the more colour will tend to drift. Particularly, blues will drift toward cyan. So, for me, setting to DR 200% gives a good balance to retain shadow and highlight, and also ensure colour fidelity. Now, when we throw Tone (contrast) into that mix, it is really going to come down to a personal preference. I like images which have stronger colour and contrast, others don't.

    Sharpening
    What I am seeing is that when sharpening is set to hard, there is less (if any) smearing. Why ?
    Maybe we should ask Fuji. Yes, sharpening halo's can be more pronounced but they are not
    intrusive at images I have prepared at up to 12 x 16"

    As far as 'uniform contrast areas' is concerned, thanks for the thoughts. I know what I mean to say, so I will look at re-wording it so others can 'know' it also.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Great post Dave. I've been using Hard Sharpening since the posts/discussions on DPReview began and have been very happy.

    Still prefer Tone = Mid and Color = Std. I use FinePix Color = Chrome most of the time, but switch to Std sometimes depending on the situation.

    Will need to test the Slow Syncro Flash next time I use it.

    Thanks for the samples, sharing your tips and settings.

    Regards,
    Raj

    ReplyDelete
  11. Raj, Hi.

    Glad you got something useful from it. Have fun playing with the flash settings.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Hi !
    On setting the sharpness to hard how does one avoid sharpenning haloes ?[I notice some while viewing at 100%]

    Thanks for any responses that may come ...!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Viewing images at 100% means you are viewing the image as if it were printed at approximately 30 x 40 inches printed.

    I am confident that if you view at (more) normal sizes that any sharpening artifacts will not be a problem.

    If you do wish to print at 30 x 40 inches, then it simply makes sense that the image would be resized to compliment the particular image.

    The images displayed here are sized to suit the blog, accordingly they will show some artifacts.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Excellent information, Dave. The beach with the umbrellas is a cool shot. My husband likes the shot of the tractor.

    Jada

    ReplyDelete
  15. Jada, Hi. Thanks for the comments. The tractor is a very fluorescent red. Some images I have taken of it really 'glow'.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Hi Dave!

    Can you explain the difference between, for example, ISO 400 and Auto 400? Also, I'm confused about AF Tracking; where is it found on the menu? Perhaps it's referred to as something else?

    Finally, I was a bit surprised to discover that all the P mode settings are applied to other shooting modes as well. Is this correct?

    Thanks for your great blog and fine effort!

    Johnny

    ReplyDelete
  17. Johnny, Hi.

    Setting the camera to ISO 400 (Auto) allows the ISO to 'float'. This means that, dependent upon the amount of light in the scene, the camera will allow the ISO to range between 100, 200, 400. If you select ISO 800 (Auto), then the range is between 100 to 800, and so on.

    The caveat to the above is that the dynamic range (DR) percentage also governs the lowest ISO which can be set. So, if the DR% is 200, then the lowest ISO allowed will be 200. If DR% is 400, then the lowest ISO allowed will be 400.

    To the left of the LCD is a button marked AF. If you hold this down, then the various AF settings will appear at the bottom of the screen and you can then select which you wish to use. AF Tracking is the one at far right.

    As mentioned in the settings post, you can simply half-press the shutter to activate it.

    I don't quite understand your last question about P Mode. If you mean that you leave these settings for shooting Raw also, then yes you leave them the same.

    If this is not what you mean, let me know.

    Hope this helps.

    Thank you for your comment about the blog.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  18. Hi ! Despite the usage of the recommended settings by yourself and Ralph I am unable to avoid smearing of foliage in my landscape images [though the smearing is less ]!I am now finding that I reach out for the tripod more often hoping to to minimize the smearing even further !
    [since u have both]I am curious to know if the S100 fs[with its legendary I.Q] was/is as difficult to set up so that it yields smear free JPEGS hand held ?

    THANK YOU [by going out of your way ..at times] for helping out HS10 users to get images with better I.Q.form their instruments .. !
    regards

    Dr Shukla

    ReplyDelete
  19. Dr Shukla, Hi.

    If you are primarily shooting landscapes, then it is best to shoot Raw. This is also true with the S100 fs as it also has a noise reduction routine for Jpeg's.

    You mention a tripod. Are you getting smearing, or are the images suffering from camera shake ?

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Hi !
    Thanks for the suggestion to shoot the landscapes in RAW ! In response to a suggestion from Ralph I am using the smallest possible aperture [f/8,f/11]in the shooting of landscapes in order to have greater depth of field ,as a result the shutter speed slows down so as to warrent need of a tripod ... hence it's mention.. !
    regards

    ReplyDelete
  21. Dr Shukla, Hi.

    I did quite a few tests a while back, and found the optimum aperture was f6.4. When using f8.0, or f11, the lens tends to go a little softer due to diffraction.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  22. Thank u for the advise about the f/stop.. !

    ReplyDelete
  23. Dave:

    P mode settings are applied to other shooting modes, such as aperture or shutter priority. If this is the case, doesn't it defeat the purpose of P mode? I understood P mode to be a separate, specific set of settings.

    Perhaps I've misunderstood?

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  24. Johnny, Hi.

    Basically, Aperture (A) sets the aperture and lets the shutter 'float'. Shutter (S) sets the shutter and allows the aperture to 'float'.

    Program (P) allows the combination of aperture/shutter the camera has selected to be 'shifted' to other combinations whilst still keeping the same level of exposure.

    The settings I have described for P mode can just as easily be applied to A or S mode. In fact, quite often I use A mode so that I can set my preferred optimum aperture of f6.4.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  25. Hi Dave,
    Thanks very much for a great source of info on using the HS10. I think what Johnny Lugnuts is saying is that changing settings in P mode ALSO changes them in A and S mode. I've found this too. We would like the previously set S and A modes settings to stay the same even if P mode is changed. That way we could rapidly switch many settings just by choosing the different mode.
    Also not sure if I'm doing it correctly but pressing or holding shutter button half way doesn't activate tracking mode on my camera when I choose tracking option on the P mode. I have to use the LEFT button to activate it.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Thanks for your reply, Dave.

    Indeed, Charles has relayed exactly what I'm trying to say. Thanks Charles!

    Johnny

    ReplyDelete
  27. Charles, Hi.

    Thanks.

    OK, understand what you and Johnny are saying about the settings. Only way I can see around that is to use the custom (C) mode to have a particular set of settings.

    AF Tracking, in it's full sense, cannot be initiated with the half press method. When you half press it works in the centre of frame only position, but it will track what it is focused on.

    To use it for tracking something not in centre of frame, you need to select it with the four way actuator.

    I find it very useful in it's centre only position though and use it that way.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  28. JUST PICKED UP MY HS10 TODAY.
    THANKS FOR YOUR INSPIRING STUFF, AND FOR THE HARD WORK YOU PUT IN RE SETTINGS...
    WILL TRY AT THAT AND SEE HOW I LIKE IT.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Kerry, Hi.

    These settings work well for me. However, it is good to try them for yourself and see how they suit your style.

    The one thing I would keep as a constant though, is Sharpness = Hard. This will minimise any effects of noise reduction applied in-camera.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  30. Q. Tried your settings as well as various other iso's. D>R> setting always greyed out at 100. Ever see or solve this please?

    ReplyDelete
  31. Kerry, Hi.

    The DR setting is ISO dependent. This means that DR 200% can only be used at ISO 200 and greater, DR 400% can only be used at ISO 400 and greater.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  32. Thanks Dave for your patience...
    tried that, then changed to no raw, and it came back for me.
    Reset to raw plus jpg, and its greyed out again.
    I guess that may mean jpeg still use it,
    but will try out my theory tomorrow morning.
    Again, thanks for your help.
    KERRY

    ReplyDelete
  33. Kerry, Hi. let me know how you get on.

    However, when you shoot Raw, or raw + then DR is always limited to DR 100%. You can set the DR in-camera to other values, the LCD will show those values, but DR is always limited to DR 100%.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  34. Dave,

    I really appreciate your tip on using AF Tracking to focus. It really makes a difference in low light. Can you explain your comment "but without initiating tracking with the four way controller". I have searched the manual for anything related to the four way controller to no avail.

    Many thanks,

    Don DeJarnette

    ReplyDelete
  35. Don, Hi.

    The manual is a bit light for information, but what there is, is on page 50.

    Normally, with AF tracking enabled you would use the controller (called the Selector Button on page 3 of the manual) to select an area within the frame where you want the tracking to take place.

    Using the 'half press' method to select means that the selection 'area' will only ever be in the centre of the frame. However, I have found that if I point at the subject I wish to track, half press and hold, and then recompose the image, that the focus will stay tracking on my subject. Neat trick.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  36. Dave,

    Yes it does help, and I can forsee that it will be quite useful in bird photography.

    Thanks for all of your great tips,

    Don

    ReplyDelete
  37. Don, Hi.

    You are welcome.

    I'm not a 'birder' but have managed to get a few images. Not so many birds around here.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  38. I can't seem to alter the dynamic range of my HS10 - the option is "grayed out" in the menu - no matter what ISO value I have set.
    Firmware 1.04
    Any ideas?

    ReplyDelete
  39. nvm - I just realised I'm shoting in RAW - doh!

    ReplyDelete
  40. Soupdragon, Hi.

    Glad you got it sorted.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  41. I have recently just bought a Fuji HS10 but am getting dark photos when used indoors with very bright sunlight or even when using lighting.I have tried the various settings.
    My previous camera was a Fuji S6500FD and i was getting a lot better results with this camera under the same conditions as i'm using the HS10.Can you advise for ge...tting better pics.Thank you.Paul.

    ReplyDelete
  42. Also i forgot to say what a great site this is Dave.Very useful info and beautiful photos.Thank you for doing all this.Paul.

    ReplyDelete
  43. Paul, Hi.

    Thank you for your comments.

    Can you give me a quick rundown of what settings you are using, including AE and AF settings ?

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  44. Hi Dave.
    Thank you fro your reply.
    I have tried all the programme settings,including what you have on this page.I have gone through each F stop,ISO,shutter speed,etc,that i can with very little difference in the results.I have taken a camera back to the shop and this was replaced.The photos are a little better with the replacement,but stil not as good as what i was getting with my S6500?
    I do like the HS10 and find it easier to use so would like to keep it,even though the HS20 is coming out soon.

    ReplyDelete
  45. Paul, Hi.

    Try this :

    P Mode, ISO 400(Auto), or ISO 800 (Auto), Standard, DR 200%, 0EV, Color=High, Tone=STD, Sharpness=Hard, AE=Average, AF=Tracking.

    For AF Tracking, simply half-press the shutter to activate. Ignore the instructions for the four way controller.

    Note : Macro mode cannot be used when AF Tracking is on.

    Do some tests in various situations and see how that fares.

    Incidentally, the above presumes you are not doing any post process work.

    Let me know how you get on.

    Cheers, Dave.

    ReplyDelete
  46. Dave.
    Just quickly taken a few pics with those settings and it is a vast improvement,thank you :-)
    The only setting different here to what i have done with the other pics was the 400 auto setting.I am trying to get decent pics of my woodturnings,and am using a white,some times Blue card background.
    Yes you are correct there was no PP.When i did the colours looked to dull and lifeless.I am trying to get a decent piccy straight from the camera to start with??

    ReplyDelete
  47. Paul, Hi.

    Glad to hear there is some improvement. Reality is that very few cameras will deliver a perfect image, straight from the camera.

    If you are using a PC, try downloading Windows Live Photo Gallery, or FastStone.

    Both of these are free and are quite simple to use. Articles on how to use these are here :

    http://eyemindsoul.blogspot.com/2010/10/pp-tips-3-using-windows-live-photo.html

    http://eyemindsoul.blogspot.com/2011/03/pp-tips-19-editing-with-faststone.html

    Good luck with it all.

    Cheers, Dave.

    ReplyDelete
  48. Thank you Dave.
    Believe me the photos i was getting was really poor?? but as i say this camera does seem better.
    Can i just ask if you would use those settings when using artificial lighting.?
    Also the settings you describe for your photo taking,do you use those for most outdoor conditions or mainly sunny days?
    I used to just mainly use Auto setting but realise that i need to play more with the settings on this camera!!

    ReplyDelete
  49. Paul, Hi.

    Fairly simply, they are what I call universal settings. In other words, they will work in almost all situations.

    The only change I make is if I want higher ISO's, or if I am shooting landscapes.

    If shooting landscapes, I switch to aperture priority (A) and set the aperture to f6.4. You will just have to trust me, but that is the clearest aperture setting.

    As for white balance, I never shift it from Auto. No need to, it works fine on Auto.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  50. That's great Dave,thank you for all your help.

    ReplyDelete
  51. Hi Dave.
    Finally had some nice warm sunny weather last weekend and got out and about taking some photos with the HS10 and got some very nice photos with it using your above settings.But i am still getting dark photos when used indoors.ust can't understand why?? Even trying to use the PP they don't look clear but hazy and washed out?? Any ideas Dave.Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
  52. Paul, Hi.

    Glad you found the settings useful outdoors. For the indoor images, is there somewhere you have them hosted that I could see an example ?

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  53. Hello Dave - Must tell you that your advice on how to set up the camera in the Program AE mode , works very well also for a newbie like me . Its easy to see the difference when you try, but I also realize there`s still a long way to get the same results in the fine art of taking photos like you do , so keep up the good work !! And by the way do you use tripod a lot when you shoot ?

    ReplyDelete
  54. Lennart, Hi.

    Many thanks for your comments. Literally, I never use a tripod. I have several, but just don't like them.

    Cheers, Dave.

    ReplyDelete
  55. Hello, Dave.
    I've bought this camera about a month ago and tried to take some photos. After uploading them to computer and watching on the big monitor, I found that all the photos are covered with strange dots. I'm new to photography, so maybe I was wrong with camera settings? Can you give me advise about how to get rid of these dots? Also, can you give me a review about taken photos? :). It wold be great for me to know what to improve to make my photos look better.
    Here is the link to album with photos - https://picasaweb.google.com/egwerr/HS10DottedImages?feat=directlink
    Thanks a lot,
    Oleg

    ReplyDelete
  56. Oleg, Hi.

    The 'dots' are really just noise and on the HS-10 they are more 'film-grain' like. If you're printing at sizes around A4, even A3, they will be hardly noticeable. As for how to take better photos ? Well, best advice I can give is to really pay attention to what is in your viewfinder. Make sure your subject is framed nicely and try to be aware of things in the scene which will detract from the subject.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  57. Hi Dave,
    thanks for the advice.
    I doubted about these 'dots' because I can't find them on photos taken by others with HS10. Your photos in this article aren't exception. There is something similar that covers your last photo, but it's not so visible as mine. And I can't find even these hardly visible dots at your third photo with umbrellas. Yesterday I've taken a pair of photos using RAW+JPEG (could be found in the same album at picasa - https://picasaweb.google.com/egwerr/HS10DottedImages?feat=directlink) and found that these dots appears only in jpegs. Still trying to find a way to reduce visibility of these dots in my photos.
    Cheers,
    Oleg

    ReplyDelete
  58. somebody did test with different speed of SDHC C2...C10,

    ReplyDelete
  59. Oleg, Hi.

    What you can do is turn the sharpening down one setting, if you are using my settings with Chrome colour. The danger there though is that you may get some 'smearing' from the noise reduction.

    Another trick to try is use Standard colour and set Color=High, Tone=Mid and Sharpness=Hard.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  60. Christian, Hi.

    I saw a test on Flickr whereby the faster card actually took more time to write.

    I use a Class 6 card and find that Jpeg's take about 1 second, and Raw about 3-4 seconds.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  61. c4 raw 5.2sec jpeg 1.1sec
    c6 raw 3.5sec jpeg 1 sec
    c10?

    ReplyDelete
  62. Christian, Hi.

    The test I was thinking of, showed class 4 write time of 12.3 seconds, 12.1 seconds for a class 6, and 14.5 seconds for a class 10. This was to write a Top 7 (Jpeg) burst and was an average of three burst writes.

    You can find the details here :

    http://www.flickr.com/groups/1326104@N20/discuss/72157626016429962/

    Look near the bottom of the page for CARD TEST.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  63. Hey Dave found this page when googling about AF modes on this camera and I just have a few questions...

    1) You say it's a good idea to set it to tracking AF and press and hold the shutter halfway down. If I'm taking a photo of a subject which is moving, will this keep that in focus then..as long as the subject was in the centre at the start? Say a duck is walking along the grass, or is there another mode for keeping moving subjects in focus?

    2) You say ISO 400 for a bright day, do you select ISO 400 or ISO 400(auto). ISO 400 fixed seems a bit high for bright sun surely? I thought cameras used 100-200 for such light levels.

    3)Reviews talk about mechanical image stabilisation and how effective it is, some show images with it turned on and off. Is it on by default? I can't find a setting for image stabilisation..

    cheers, Joe.

    ReplyDelete
  64. oh one more thing I forgot. Do you use single AF or continuous? I'm not sure the difference to be honest..continuous sounds good for moving things though..

    ReplyDelete
  65. Joe, Hi.

    Some answers :
    1. I find AF Tracking is the best mode and yes it will track the subject you have selected. You can also use AF continuous but I find AF Tracking better and has less battery drain as it is only on once you half-press.
    2. I normally use ISO 400 (Auto), even ISO 800 (Auto). I do this so that I can have a 'set and forget' setting to cover most eventualities. You are quite correct though that a lower ISO is better. Keep in mind that the DR function is effectively 'off' at ISO 100. That is OK if you manage your exposure correctly. Otherwise, set to ISO 200 and DR 200%. Much better exposure control.
    3. IS is set up in the 'Setup' menu (IS Mode). Have a look at page 106 in the manual. I think it is off by default. I have mine set to '2-Shooting Only'. Again, less battery drain. As to what IS is most effective, you will get countless opinions on that. Suffice to say that with the HS-10 my experience is a pleasant one when it comes to getting those what would otherwise be impossible shots at long tele lengths. I also have the S100 fs and that has a zoom length of 400 mm. I can get better (steadier) results with the HS-10 at 720 mm, than I can with the S100 fs at 400 mm. So, I am quite confident that Fuji got the IS figured out quite nicely.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  66. Hey Dave. Yep found the IS mode, there are a few types of stabilisation, it is ON by default but the manual suggests it's better to have it OFF if you use a tripod, otherwise it's helpful.

    However for the whole AF tracking and using the shutter. If I just press the shutter halfway down I get a green box in the centre which focuses on what ever is there, but if I move this object around the focus is still on the centre of the screen, where as if I click left like it tells me to, it does then follow it around....so I'm not sure how the shutter method works?

    ReplyDelete
  67. Joe, Hi.

    I never turn the IS off, even on a tripod. It really doesn't make a difference. Try it yourself.

    Think of face recognition and you'll get the idea. What the green box focuses on will be what the camera continues to track irrespective of whether it is still in the box, or not. I have shot over 5,000 images since I first started using it and have proved it to myself over, and over.

    The annoying thing is that I also have the S100 fs and it doesn't have AF Tracking. Whenever I switch between the two it is like chalk and cheese. The HS-10 will always maintain focus, the S100 fs needs a lot more work.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  68. Hi Dave. What a site!!! I have just read it from top to bottom and learnt so much. Thanks. Your settings are great and make an excellent base-line, but I will still experiment, as I think that's what it's all about. One thing I am not sure of even after reading the manual, is in RAW + JPEG setting, should i get 2 images saved. i.e. one Raw AND one jpeg?

    ReplyDelete
  69. Roger, Hi.

    Thank you for your comments.

    Many have found the settings helpful but I would always encourage all to experiment. Best way to learn.

    If shooting Raw + Jpeg, you will have two images. 1 x Raw file and 1 x Jpeg file. The Raw is Raw data from the sensor and the Jpeg has the in-camera settings applied.

    Normally, I shoot Raw + Jpeg but (lately) just work with the Jpeg and keep the Raw for if I need it.

    The settings described work well for what I want from a Jpeg image.

    Have fun with your HS10.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  70. Thx for this great info. This is really a great camera, since my analogue DSLR.
    I am wondering how to set the exposure as an offset at all times, like you stated: " I also set Exposure Compensation (EV), to minus 0.33 EV". Is this a manual thing which you do for each photo, or a default setting for all? And where in the menu can I find this?
    Furthermore I noticed that image quality set to standard gives a "warmer" picture than in "fine" mode. Do you agree, as I noticed your setting is always Fine? I would like to know your motivation for fine .i.s.o. Standard. Thanks.

    jeroen

    ReplyDelete
  71. Why is the RAW image from the HS10 only 3 megapixel, when it is advertised as a 10 megapixel?
    Cheers,
    John

    ReplyDelete
  72. Why can't I set F11 when in A priority.The spec. says the lens is f2.8 - f11. Am I doing something wrong? I have made doubly sure that the zoom is at 24mm. Thanks. Roger

    ReplyDelete
  73. Solved the problem, I was the wrong software.
    John

    ReplyDelete
  74. Jeroen J, Hi.

    I've been off the air for several weeks, so my apologies for not responding sooner.

    EV compensation is set with the +/- button just behind the shutter release. It can be set when in P Mode.

    Standard image quality ? I simply use Fine - Force of habit, I guess. I find it best on any digital camera I have owned.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  75. Roger, Hi.

    f11 is only available in Manual mode.

    Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
  76. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  77. Thanks for such a great blog! A great help to an amateur like me- I can leverage much more from my camera now than I was doing earlier.

    I understand that in program mode, most of the time you set the default EV to -0.33; does this help even if not shooting in RAW? I leave it at 0 and change only depending on lighting conditions..

    ReplyDelete
  78. Yogi, Hi.

    Thank you for your comments. I find leaving the EV at -0.33 helps in most situations to avoid any highlight clipping. However, changing it to suit lighting conditions is perfectly OK.

    Cheers, Dave.

    ReplyDelete
  79. Thank you for your blog. I have read a few of your posts now and I find that for the first time I am beginning to understand my camera. I am trying to get good crisp clear images of beads that I make so use Macro a lot. I think lighting might be my big problem now. Do you have any posts about light tents and artificial lighting? I think maybe that is something you don't do.

    ReplyDelete
  80. Hi Dave

    Hope you are doing well.

    I dont know if I am just spoilt with my SLR, but I have recently had my HS10 cleaned and serviced. Now it feels like the shutter button is taking forever to take a photo.

    Could you please advise?

    Thanx

    Elizabeth

    ReplyDelete
  81. Hi what's the best settings and what mode to shot in for landscapes cheers .

    ReplyDelete