Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts

Friday, 29 April 2011

PP Tips 25 - Using Adobe Lightroom

This is part of a 'How To' series on post process work.

I have put together a fairly simple overview of using some of the adjustment tools in Lightroom. As it will be difficult to see the process steps here, I have created a PDF file which can be downloaded.

It is in two parts - For part one click here, and for part two click here

For reference, here are a couple of the images shown in the tutorial.


Original.



Adjusted.



Original.



Adjusted.



Cheers


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Other posts in this series - Click here for the index page.

Sunday, 24 April 2011

PP Tips 24 - Using 'Masks' In Photoshop

This is part of a 'How To' series on post process work.

This one deals with some techniques to create masks in Photoshop, and how to then apply editing steps with/within the masks.

There are several techniques to accomplish this, and I am simply showing some of them.

I have made an overview using several different images, and using different styles of masking for different purposes. As it will be difficult to see the process steps here, I have created a PDF file which can be downloaded - Click here

Due to its size, the document is in four sections. The above link will take you to part one and all the other parts can then be downloaded from there.

Please download and, above all, enjoy.

For reference, here are a couple of the original 'as-shot' images followed by the image as edited using the techniques as described.

In this first one, the idea was to completely remove the background to create a 'clipping mask'.


The original image.




The completed image.




With this next one, the goal was to balance shadows and highlights.

The original image.




The completed image.




Hope you find it helpful.


Cheers


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For other posts in this series, please click here

PP Tips 23 - Simple Photoshop Black And White Technique

This is part of a 'How To' series on post process work.

This one deals with a technique to convert a colour image to a black and white one, using some of the tools in Photoshop.

There are many techniques to accomplish this, and to accomplish different effects, this is just one of them.

I have made a very quick overview of a couple of image edits using this technique. As it will be difficult to see the process steps here, I have created a PDF file which can be downloaded - Click here

Please download and, above all, enjoy.

For reference, here is one of the original 'as-shot' images followed by the image as edited using the technique.




Hope you find it helpful.


Cheers


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For other posts in this series, please click here

Monday, 28 March 2011

PP Tips 21 - Using A Provia Curve And Sharpening Action

This is part of a 'How To' series on post process work.

I came across a set of film simulation curves for Photoshop a while ago. One of the curves was to simulate Provia film and I have since used this quite extensively with some of my images.

One of the things I then did, was to add my sharpening routine to it and created an action called 'Provia + DLSharp 2'.

I have made a very quick overview of an image edit using this action. As it will be difficult to see the process steps here, I have created a PDF file which can be downloaded - Click here

Please download and, above all, enjoy.


For reference, here is the original 'as-shot' image followed by the image edited using the action.




Other posts in this series - Click here for the index page.


Cheers


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Wednesday, 23 March 2011

PP Tips 20 - Using The FujiFilm RFC EX

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The new FujiFilm X100, HS-20 EXR and the F550 EXR all have Raw capability and each comes bundled with a raw file converter (RFC).

For the EXR series cameras, this is called RFC EX and is powered by SilkyPix. As far as I can tell, it is the same version for all the EXR sensor cameras.

I am a long time user of Photoshop and Adobe Camera Raw and use them daily. I have also been using SilkyPix products for the past year, or so. Personally, I think they are excellent products. It just takes a little time to learn to use them.

My first introduction to SilkyPix products was with the RFC supplied with the FujiFilm HS-10. That RFC had quite limited functionality and many settings were simply non-adjustable presets.

Fortunately, the new RFC EX has the important 'controller panes' fully operable and adjustable.

Anyway, I have made a very simple overview of an image conversion/edit. As it will be difficult to see the images here, I have created a PDF file which can be downloaded here

A zipped version is available here

Note : The file is quite large (8 mb) as there are quite a number of image examples

In the example, I am simply running through an overview of how to use the RFC EX. The settings I am using are purely subjective and I would always encourage you to try your own variations. Typically, I step through an image edit in the order that I am showing. This always works well, for me.

Hopefully, you will find this helpful.

Update : Below is an example of an HS-20 EXR file converted with the RFC EX

A friend of mine has just got the HS-20 EXR and sent me a couple of sample Raw files.

The first image below is the Raw file converted in RFC EX but with no adjustments applied. In other words, it is just a 'flat' conversion with the default settings.

The second is the adjusted image which has also then had some additional sharpening applied in Photoshop.

Note : Clicking either image will take you to a larger size





Cheers


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Other posts in this series - Click here for the index page.

Sunday, 13 March 2011

PP Tips 19 - Editing With FastStone

This is part of a 'How To' series on post process work.

One product which I use on almost a daily basis, is FastStone Viewer. Not only is it an image viewer but it also has some image editing functionality.

FastStone is not what I call a 'full featured' image editor, but it can certainly be useful for basic editing functions for either Jpeg or Raw files.

Anyway, I have made a very quick overview of an image edit. As it will be difficult to see the images here, I have created a PDF file which can be downloaded here

Please download and, above all, enjoy.

For reference, here is the original 'as-shot' image followed by the image as edited in Fast Stone.






Other posts in this series - Click here for the index page.


Cheers


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Friday, 4 February 2011

PP Tips 18 - Editing With SilkyPix DS Pro

This is part of a 'How To' series on post process work.

I first came across SilkyPix products back in April, 2010. Since then I have used them quite extensively and I am impressed.

I am a Photoshop user for more than a dozen years and it is hard to get me to shift camps. Still, after doing hundreds of edits with SilkyPix products, I think it has the edge for 'initial edit' purposes. Be that for Jpeg or Raw images.

Anyway, I have made a very quick overview of an image edit. As it will be difficult to see the images here, I have created a PDF file which can be downloaded here

Please download and, above all, enjoy.

For reference, here is the original 'as-shot' image followed by the image edited in SilkyPix DS Pro.




A couple of related posts you may find interesting :

FujiFilm HS-10 - Raw Converters Compared

FujiFilm HS-10 - Supplied Raw File Converter



Cheers

Other posts in this series - Click here for the index page.


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Saturday, 25 December 2010

PP Tips 17 - Paint It Black

This is part of a 'How To' series on post process work.

This tip is about using the Vivid Light brush in Photoshop. Similar technique would probably work in any editor which has a paint brush palette where a 'lightening' effect can be applied.

The Vivid Light brush is is one of my favourite tools and is invaluable for adding some extra light, or even darkening parts of an image selectively. In other words, doing localised contrast adjustment.


Image one

This is the original image which I wish to adjust. It is straight from camera.




Image Two

Selecting the paint brush tool from the tools palette, I next select a brush type (soft), and then set the size I wish to use, use the drop down to select Vivid Light, the colour I wish to use and the level of Opacity.

So, my settings are soft brush, Vivid Light, white colour, 380 pixels, Opacity = 5%.

Note : Opacity of 5% is a good all round setting. You can always paint over an area more than once

I have a preset for these values (AA Vivid Light 380) and this is easy to add to the brush menu.




Image Three

Here, I have simply used my 'white' brush to paint over parts of the harvester and also any grass areas. I have avoided the sky and also the bags in the foreground.




Image Four

Having lightened parts of the image, I have now switched my brush colour to black, and painted over the tops of the bags and the grass at the right foreground.




Image Five

Switching back to the white brush, I have now painted over the tops of the bags and some of the grass next to the bags.

What this has done is to create some more localised contrast around the top of the bags.




Well, that's it. Finished.


Image Six

The original, again.




Image Seven

The adjusted image.




Image Eight

The original left, and adjusted image at right.



Hope you found it helpful.


Note : You can use any colour, not just white or black. For example, you may wish to use orange to add lightness, or glow, in areas in a sunset scene. Always good to experiment


Update 26th December - Here are a couple more examples, using the same technique.


Image One

Original image from camera.




Image Two

What I have done here is to do one brush sweep of black over the sky, mountain, tree areas, and then one pass of white.

For the foreground, I have used a couple of passes of white, and then one pass of black, and one more of white. Nothing else was done.




Image Three

The original left, and adjusted at right.




Image Four

The original image, as shot.




Image Five

What I have done here is to do several passes over different areas, simply using white or black. As a final step, I did a pass over the sky area with blue, and a pass over the mountain area with a red/orange shade.




Image Six

The original left, and adjusted at right.




Cheers

Other posts in this series - Click here for the index page.


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Thursday, 9 December 2010

PP Tips 16 - Virtual Photographer

This is part of a 'How To' series on post process work.

This one is about a free effects plug-in called Virtual Photographer, which can be used in Photoshop, or used in it's own stand alone editor, Virtual Studio which is also free.

I have used Virtual Photographer (VP) for many years within Photoshop. A few months back, my PC crashed badly and I ended up rebuilding it from scratch. One thing I did not reinstall, at the time, was VP.

A few days back, I decided to reinstall it and went to the VP web site. I was surprised to see there was a new version, and also to see a 'sister' program called Virtual Studio (VS). VS was being advertised as a photo editor and also a front end for VP, or other Photoshop plug ins.

These are both free programs. The web site is OptikVerve Labs - Click here

Whilst I normally use VP within Photoshop, below is a quick example of using it within VS. Incidentally, I tried a few other plug-ins within VS and some worked OK, some didn't.


The original image.




The image as opened in Virtual Studio.




There are some 'quick fix' buttons in the top row, and there are other adjustments available under the Adjust heading in the top drop down menus.

Here, I have simply clicked the 'Enhance' quick fix button.

Note : On this image it worked very well. On some other images it was a little harsh




Clicking the 'VP' button opens Virtual Photographer and then different effects can be selected from the drop down menus. There are dozens of effects available both colour and black and white.

There are also a myriad of different adjustment options under the Film and Style menus. Once you have created an effect you like, you can then also save that effect.




Here, I have selected the 'Transparency' film effect from the Default options drop down menu.




With the effect applied, the next step is to click the Process button in the bottom right hand corner.

Tip : Once the effect has been applied, you can still view the original simply by clicking and holding on the image




After clicking the Process button, the image will re-open in Virtual Studio.

At the bottom of the screen is a Blend bar. Here, I have adjusted it so that I am applying about 75% of the effect. Once done, simply click Apply.




Whilst I have not applied any other adjustments to this particular image, there are many other adjustment options within Virtual Studio.

Clicking on the Adjust menu reveals many different adjustment options.




Now I have applied my Virtual Photographer effect, I simply click File/Save As and a save window opens.

Here I have used the original file name and simply added VSVP after so that I know
it has been adjusted within the program.

Note : Never save over the original file




The image as edited in Virtual Photographer.




That's it. It's simple and easy to use.


A few more examples done in the same manner as above. Some have been sharpened though.

Originals followed by the VS/VP edit.























Cheers

Other posts in this series - Click here for the index page.


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